Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
